Though steeped in history, Kyoto is not delicate about it. Here, the visitor
will find exactly what he expects from Japan in the shape of temples and gardens
but also plenty more besides to shake up the preconceptions. In fact, you might
wonder if you're in the right town when you arrive at Kyoto station, a city in
itself with it's own restaurants, bars, galleries and roof garden. Recent developments
such as this share the town with over 2,000 shrines and temples, dating from as
far back as the 9th century.
Kyoto is also famous for geisha, more so since the highly popular page-turner,
"Memoirs of a Geisha". Their lengthy and gruelling training in such
arts as dance and music means that their services are priced beyond the reach
of most. You can, however, see them perform publicly at Gion Corner and sometimes
hurrying, elegantly dressed, to their evening engagements. A more bawdy kind of
fun can be had amongst the hostess bars of Pontocho, where less refined entertainment
attracts far greater crowds.
Exploring historic Kyoto will have you torn between visiting the next essential
temple and savouring the atmospheric garden at the one you're in. In the West
of Kyoto is Kinkaku-ji with its Golden Pavilion (real gold) and Ryoan-ji with
its famous Zen garden. Katsura Rikyu is also a must, being one of the finest examples
of 17th century Japanese Imperial architecture. Further west is the suburb of
Arashiyama with its serene bamboo forests. It's famous for the Zen garden at Tenryo-ji
and also Okochi Sanso, the magnificent former residence of a 1920s silent movie
actor.
The eastern side of town is more densely packed with traditional attractions
and bright kimono are proudly worn, though more often by geisha wannabes than
the real thing. They pay about $100 to get dressed up as maiko (apprentices) and
prowl the streets of Gion and around basking in the attention.
Dressed up or not, check out the 1001 gold plated statues at Sanjusangen-do
and the view of southwestern Kyoto from the wooden terrace at Kiyomizu-dera. Then
move north through Gion to Heian Jingu, suitably grand to commemorate the first
and last of the Kyoto Emperors. The arts and crafts museums in the area are well
worth visiting, especially before starting on the Path of Philosophy, a picturesque
walk along the hillside towards Ginkaku-ji, the sublime Temple of the Silver Pavilion.
Another worthwhile temple is To-ji, one of the city's oldest, housing a wonderful
collection of treasures, some gathered by the founder of Shingon Buddhism himself,
Kobo Daishi. And enquire at the Imperial Household Agency to visit the unassumingly
elegant Imperial Palace. It's a stark contrast with the ostentatious, Nijo-jo,
the former castle residence of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the first Shogun.
It's hard to do Kyoto justice in only a few days, let alone in just a few hundred
words. As the historical centrepiece of any tour of Japan, it's a must visit destination.
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